Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Easy Method to Measure HHO Output in LPM

Many are asking how to measure the output of their HHO generators, so here is a cheap and easy way to do it and as accurate as one can be. Materials needed are 1 Glass Jar ( 1 liter or 1 quart, whatever) , Plastic Cap ( or could be the regular metal cap), about 30" of 3/8 Plastic Hose and a 500 milliliter or larger measuring cup borrowed from the kitchen cupboard.

Drill two 3/8" holes in the lid, insert one end of the 3/8" hose to the bottom of the jar through one of the holes, then measure about 12 inches or so from the other end of the hose and cut it off so you end up with the hose used as the output from the generator to the jar. Insert that hose about 1 inch through the other hole in the lid and the other end to the generator or cell output.
I had to "goop" around the hoses in the lid, both underneath and on top of the lid as it would leak otherwise. Also with the pressure required to displace the water from the jar, the lid was leaking until I made a gasket for the lid. ( It may be simpler to use the regular lid with rubber gasket than the Plastic cap)
To do a measurement, fill the jar with water, screw down the lid, insert the hose that does not go to the bottom of the jar into the output of the cell and the other hose into the meauring cup. Turn on the power to the generator and start timing when water starts entering the measuring cup.
After one minute remove the hose from the measuring cup and read off the milli-liters of water in measuring cup.... divide the number of milli-liters by 1000 to get LPM. There you have the LPM output of your device.... for example, say it filled the measuring cup to the 450 ml mark ...... 450 ml divided by 1000 = .45 LPM Simple.
Click on the video clip below to see how it works. You will note the water being displaced by the hydrogen entering the jar and the water level increasing in the measuring cup as the level in the jar decreases.

If your device happens to fill the 500 ml meauring cup in less than 1 minute, for example.. fills it in 40 seconds then divide the number of seconds into 60 and multiply by .500....... 60/40 x .500 = .750 LPM .......... if it fills in 30 seconds,then .....60/30 x .500 = 1.00 LPM, etc

Have fun and cheers, Rebel

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Cheap & Easy Bubbler and Condensator

Realizing that many experimenters are not using a bubbler with their HOD systems to scrub out contaminents before they reach the engine itself, I decided to experiment a bit and came up with a workable cheap solution.....

Due to having engine problems about one year ago using baking soda and then later lye as the electrolyte, I figured many may want to prevent such an occurence with their setup.

My vehicle stalled about 35 miles from home because of my HOD system spewing other stuff than hydrogen into the air intake. The mechanic had to clean the MAF sensor and the throttle body of yellowish brown residue. The throttle body had distinct signs of corrosion that had been taking place as well. Fortunately the vehicle suffered no harm as far as I know.

The above photo shows my modified smack booster idling at about 2 amps (see video clip below) with the output hose going through the cap to the bottom of the bubbler made from a water bottle, from there to a condensator made from another water bottle on the right and from that into a jar of water to illustrate that the hydrogen gas is indeed passing through the bubbler and condensator.

The bubbler is made by drilling two 1/4 inch holes in the cap. The output hose from the cell is pushed down through the hole to the bottom of the bottle, the output hose from the bubbler is pushed in about 1 inch. I did not have to use anything to seal around the holes as the hose sealed itself in the hole. Fill the bottle with tap water to about 3/4 full and you are ready to go with the bubbler.

The condensator is made the same way except both hoses are inserted only about an inch through the cap. The bottle is left empty and if there is any condensate coming through, it will settle as a liquid in the bottom of the bottle...... and can be dumped out as required.

Caution: Do not use these water bottles if you are connected to the Intake Manifold as they will collapse under the vacuum..... use a sturdier material in such cases. No problem when connected to the air intake....

I don't know how long these bottles will last in the environment under the hood, but kept away from any hot spots they should go for quite a while. You can always use some other material to make a bubbler and condensator that will last indefinitely now that you have an idea what is required.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Mis-information on Hydrogen needing suction, pumps, etc

I have been reading on various forums the discussions relating to hydrogen needing suction to get into the engine and suggestions to use pumps to help it along. I don't know where all this has originated, but it is all mis-leading information.

First of all if you have built a Water4Gas cell ( wire in the jar ) properly (or any other cell) and have tested it to make sure there are no leaks, I guarantee you that the hydrogen and oxygen gas it produces will build up sufficient pressure to force its way to wherever you desire.

The photo above shows a W4G cell with output connected to a 12" bubbler, tie wrapped to the 4th panel support on my balcony, then a return line coming back to the first support and looped around it, with the end in the jar of water.

Most people do not realize that any cell built without leaks has the capacity to blow up balloons that are connected to the output hose. Just having read that the W4G cell can not push the hydrogen from the trunk of a car to the engine compartment, got me a bit upset, so I set up a W4G cell, connected its output to a 12 inch bubbler located 9 feet 7 inches away, took the output from the top of the bubbler back 13 feet 5 inches and inserted the end into a jar of water. Bubbles are coming up in the bubbler as they are from the bottom of the jar. Note: no pumps needed..... Play the video clip below to see a W4G cell running at 4 amps pushing the hydrogen more than 23 feet through the plastic tubing and the bubbler half way in between.

You will note that I have no bubbler valve on the W4G cell, only the output hose and electrical connections. When you have installed your cell in a vehicle, always check by putting the output hose into a jar or plastic water bottle full of water to see if it bubbles..... if it doesn't.... you have a leak and you have to find it, repair it then and there, otherwise you don't have a operating hydrogen cell.

NOTE: As the cell heats up the plastic lid starts to leak, unless you have an O ring or gasket in place and the cell will not produce bubbles at the output any more. Therefor, a bubbler is essential to keep track of what is happening with your system.

The video clip above show the bubbling in the 12 inch bubbler over nine feet away. The bubbler has been in use for several months in my vehicle and is not as clear as it used to be, but looking closely, you can see the action in it.

OK, got that off my chest.... on to other things.

Monday, June 02, 2008

2003 Chevy Venture Trials and Tribulations

First, some history with my efforts ......

The van has 156,187 kms or nearly 97,000 miles on it, runs well getting from 29 to 31 mpg (Imperial gallons) on longer Highway trips of 200 to 300 miles. Shorter trips, under 75 miles, the highway mileage is between 22 to 26 MPG... suspect it is due to the weight of the fuel, I keep my tank topped off all the time, mostly due to doing test runs. City driving gets me 17 to 19 MPG. All the above without HOD or any other enhancers operating... .

I have run, Water4Gas single cell plus multiple cell and a smack booster without any significant increases in MPG, sometimes a decrease. All of the above has been without any other enhancements added. The reason they were not added because I did not see any initial increases in MPG, (and then the drop to less mileage than they were getting originally) that many report with their various boosters.... .

I ran across "Tuning for Mileage" by mpgmike and read it, studied it over and over again. Ordered the EFIE from Eagle Research, built the Map Voltage Regulator, located all the various sensors, etc. After receiving the EFIE and having built the Voltage Regulator I had problems trying to find the wiring for the O2 sensor and the MAP sensor, so decided to get a local garage to hook them up for me.... well, due to the way things were crammed in and inaccessible without removing different items it took 2 1/2 hours to complete that job..... and you can imagine what the cost was.

I built a HOD booster using 2 inch by 7 inch PVC pipe, with 5 SS threaded rod electrodes approximately 6 1/2 inches long, the booster is connected to a Reservoir/Bubbler by two clear plastic tubes, one being the output for gas and electrolyte to the bottom of the reservoir, and the other a return working by thermal syphoning action. Another bubbler is just before the air intake. This generates about .75 LPM at the moment. The booster is located in front of the rad,low down and the reservoir is as high as I can get it at the back of the engine compartment, for the thermo syphoning to work properly.

I did the whole tuning process, but ran into so many trouble codes that I re-did things one at a time. Got the EFIE set at 365 millivolts without tripping the closed loop to "Open". Anything higher would go to open loop. Tried a short test run with only the EFIE on. Got 34.45 MPG... encouraging!

Did the CTS: using 3.9 k ohms. Temp at 206 F . No codes

Did IAT: using 3.9 k ohms. Went to Open Loop... could not set EFIE to go to closed loop, removed resistor. Got closed loop again. left resistor out for time being.

Did the MAP: Set it to 3.50 volts. Anything less would trip a MAP code

Did MAF: using 22 ohms, no good.. MAF codes. Same with 10 and 15 ohm, codes come up intermittently. Finally tried the 10 and 15 ohm resistors in parallel, no more codes.

O2 Sensor, AFR adjustments etc: Over a period of 3 days I have manage to increase the EFIE voltage to its present setting of 375 millivolts by small increments, otherwise I would get Open Loop. Seems after several hours the setting will not trip to Open Loop, when done this way.
Last night with everthing connected (including the resistor for the IAT) and the hydrogen running I got 34.21 MPG on a 39 mile run without tripping any codes.

All my MPG checks were done by filling the tank to overflowing and doing the calculations from there. The ScanGaugeII is not at all reliable for checking MPG once you have made changes to your sensors etc. Most of the readings are all over the place after such changes.

I thought I was getting close to seeing something worth while, however, after doing 9 test runs in the last 5 days using different settings, I am beginning to think that my earlier observations regarding HHO were correct.... that all the gains most people are getting is from the fuel heaters, PCV enhancer, EFIE, Map and Maf enhancers plus the Acetone, Xylene etc that is being added, and not from the hydrogen! My best mileage gain was by running the EFIE only.

Time for a reality check....... .